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New Mixed Climbs of Ouray

Ouray Ice Park

Five Fingers Area

Salsa Lisa M7: Climb grade 4 ice to ledge. Continue up thin crack with excellent pick placements, with bolts to thin rock moves before gaining ice at the top. Gear: ice screws and quickdraws.

 

Skylight Area

Poser's Lounge: Cinnamon and Cider M11/11+ (marked in red - New!). Other Routes(R to L in yellow) are Trogladyte M9, Goldline M10, Fistful of Steel M10+

Jason Nelson on Cinnamon and Cider

Description: Climb steep rock (similar to other Poser's Lounge routes) then emark onto pocketed overhaning headwall to anchors, or continue left to the ice pillar if it's in. All Bolts.

Has not yet seen a second ascent 12/30/05.

 

The following routes are located uphill from the Poser's Lounge and downhill from Choppo's Chimney on the Camp Brid Road.

Maid to Order M7 (left route marked in yellow) Bolted as a drytooling route. The best of the bunch here.
Unnamed M7 (right route marked in yellow) Bolted as a rock climb
Dumpster M4/5 (right of the two shown routes) Climbs up a corner to a black vegatated crack. Upper bolts and anchors may be covered in snow.
Unknown M6/7? Bolted as a rock climb to the right of Dumpster about 30 ft. Exciting slab moves to finish.

 

Slip Slidding Away Gully

Shattered Dreams M8 (New!) Shown in blue. Climb overhanging corner with 3 bolts to a 3 camalot placement, gain ice and a ledge. Climb over ice roof with a bolt and continue to bolt anchor (ice screws or .5 camalot). This route can be top roped by climbing Slip Slidding Away, but you'll want to clip in directionals.

Fractured Fairytailes M6+ Shown in green. Climb the ice of tourist trap place a 3 or 4 camalot in a pocket and traverse slab with 2 bolts to gain ice and finish the same as Shattered Dreams. Rarely climbed.

The Sky is Falling M9/10 (New!) Shown in yellow. Climb grade 4+ ice to the top, clip bolt, traverse to the right on Tourist Trap, then follow bolts out the horizontal roof and onto an overhanging headwall and bolt anchors. Double ropes are useful. Gear: quickdraws and ice screws. Has not yet seen a second ascent 12/30/05.

Tourist Trap M6 Shown in red. Climb grade 4+ ice to the top, clip bolt, traverse to the right (pins) and onto ledge, then find the anchor.

 

 

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