Bald Head Cliff Bouldering

When I arrived at this area, there were a number of beautiful girls in bikinis' clipping bolts up Bald Head Cliff. Before I even had a chance to smile, I woke up. Bald Head Cliff is off limits to climbing (I've tried). It is owned by the Cliff House, an expensive restaraunt and Hotel. I was asked to leave before I could even set up a toprope. There is however some (but not a lot of) bouldering if you're sneaky enough not to get noticed. A number of the walls tall enough to boulder on face the ocean. Go in the off season, or dress like a tourist. The sign might say 'no climbing', but I found some rocks to climb on. It's also a good place to watch the waves crash on the rocks during a storm (don't go bouldering on that same trip).

 
 

 

 

 

 

Directions: From Long Sands Beach continue North past Short Sands Beach, and the road turns into Shore Road. About 5-10 minutes after you pass over a bridge (Cape Neddick Beach) you'll go past a stone church and you'll notice a sign for The Cliff House or Bald Head. Drive down the road, park at the Hotel and walk down to the water.

 

Share Your Cliff Block

At the bottom of the cliff is this block. Some harder routes ascend the overhanging face.

 

Access for Everyone Wall

On the right at the bottom of stairs.The white striped wall faces the ocean and overhangs some. The rock is a little flaky though.

 

Dirty Roof

It's got steep going for it. Some of the holds are a bit loose so watch out. There was also a puddle at the botttom of the wall, so watch how you fall. A number of routes and variations exist on this wall. This wall is just uphill from Greedy Landowners go to Hell.

 

Greedy Landowners Go to Hell Wall

A fun problem traverses the crack and then tops out. The right arete can also be climbed on some crimps.