Harbor Beach Bouldering

York Harbor Beach offers some good bouldering. Mostly in the easy to moderate ranges, but some good harder problems or variations exist. Most of the rock is good quality, but there are some loose sections too. It's not always obvious which is which. One bouldering session here ended with me waking up at the hospital. I pulled a big block off and landed on the rocks below. The rock is some sort of shale that can break unexpectedly at times.

The Author on Lover'sCrack
 

 

York Harbor Beach

 

 

Directions: Exit I-95 at the Yorks, follow the spur rd. east to Rte. 1. Go South then take Rte. 1a past 103 and take a right when you can see the ocean (across from the York Harbor Inn). Park and walk north for about 5 mins. along the coast until you find rock.

Fighting the Rising Tide (V0) on a small outcrop near the Harbor Beach Wall

Warm up Wall

This is the first wall (of quality rock) as you walk from the beach.

Lots of easy variations exist on this wall.

SW face of the Harbor Beach Wall

Low Traverse (V4) - Harder than the Lip Traverse. Follow holds on the lower portion of the wall and ending with the broken rock on the left side.

Lip Traverse (V1) - a good warm up, hand traverse the lip and exit the broken rock on the left side.

What's in your pocket? (V1) - Start left on big holds, traverse right then reach up to a pocket at mid height and go for the lip.

Over and Up (V2) - Start on low jug move left on small holds to gain the lip.

Harbor Beach Wall

Traverse (V4) - the left side of the wall has a lower traverse with two tough sections and ends just before Stage Neck.

Dihedral - Start on the right and work up the dihedral

Crack (V1) - Follow the obvious crack up and over, or avoid the crack and just use the face holds.

Face off - follow face holds up and over

Stage Neck - Start on the left side of the light colored wall and go up on interesting moves on slanting, sloping holds to a pocket on the right, then top out. Crashpad or Toprope recommended.

Lover's Crack (V3/4) - Small face holds gain a finger crack at the top of the wall. Crashpad or Toprope recommended. The rock at the top is a little questionable. You'll also be topping out into some bushes.

 

Last Wall

High Traverse - easier than the low traverse. Follow the upper horizontal crack system.

Low Traverse - crux is in the middle. Start on the wall to the right to add a few extra moves, or finish with Corner Store

Corner Store - climb crack in the back of the corner to horizontal crack and a big move to the top.

Groovin' - pretty easy, pretty obvious

Right Side - climb right side of the wall through a small roof.

What's in your Pocket?

 

Any questions please contact jason@visualadventures.com