Jason Picard at The Double Tier Wall

Long Sands Beach Bouldering

About the area: a moderate supply of good bouldering lies on the north end of Long Sands Beach. Warm up on the Rock Wall Traverse until you're bored. This manmade conglomerate rock is found along the coastline to keep folks' front yards from washing into the sea. Then travel along the coast, perhaps tidepooling along the way to the approach wall. Soon the real fun will begin. I don't know what kind of rock this is, but it's primarily good and solid once you get to the approach wall. It seems as though there's some sandstone mixed into the matrix or rock. Below the high water mark is federally owned land. As long as you don't make too much noise, nobody will know that you're even there.

 
 

 

Directions: Exit I-95 at the Yorks, follow the spur rd. east to Rte. 1. Go South then take Rte. 1a until you reach Long Sands Beach (it's 3 miles long and right alongside the road, you can't miss it). Park at the north end of Long Sands (Rock Wall Traverse is right there). Hike toward the Nubble Light House along the coast for about 10 minutes until you reach the Approach Wall, cross this and you're there.

 

Rock Wall Traverse

Here you go, 200 ft. of traversing while you receive strange looks form overweight beach goers. The cobbles provide nice edges and sidepulls. I guess you could call this manmade conglomerate.

 

Long Sands Boulders

Approach Wall

If it's not low tide you'll probably have to traverse this wall to get to the good bouldering. Don't worry, it's only 4th class, maybe V1 with a crash pad and approach shoes.

 

Double Tier

This boulder will quickly win your heart with steep rock and cool features. Of course you might win a broken bone if you come off this thing unexpectedly without a crash pad. Many variations exist.

Tiers in Heaven V2 ***- start on the right side of picture, traverse as shown and continue up the right side of the arete.

Tiers of a Clown V3 ** - start on the right side of picture, traverse underneath roof and up the other side on steep rock and good holds

A Light in the Attic Wall

 

Jason Nelson on Tourist Season

Jason Picard on The Double Tier Wall

Will Miles on an unnamed problem

 

A Light in the Attic Wall

A number of up problems and traverses grace this quality wall. It's about 30 ft. long and probably about 9 ft. tall of overhanging rock to a slab topout. Problems tend to be a little more difficult for those not vertically challenged.

Traverse V4/5 - a traverse has been done from Picaro to Nubble Trouble

Nubble Trouble V1 ** - climb the arete on the left side of the wall.

Tourist Season V2 *** - jug haul with a tough first move shown in picture (left). Sit start and follow the good holds upwards and onto the slab.

Smack-A-Rent-A-Cop V1 * - follow corner upwards.

Barnacle Bill V2/3* - Start low and cranck up on small holds on the face.

Seafood Buffet V2/3*** - Start laying down on the shelf and pull up to the sidepull/undercling, then crank up to the top.

Lisa Nelson on Nubble Trouble