Nubble Lighthouse (aka Sohier Park)

The Nubble Lighthouse is one of the icons or York and probably one of the moste visited of Maine's Lighthouses. There are tourists here all of the time and it is also popular amongst divers. The granite on these 10 ft. walls is reminiscent of Joshua Tree and quite fun to climb on. Most of the landings are flat and all of them are rocky.

I think this is some of the best bouldering I've done around York, and it is also quite scenic. Unfortunatly, there's not a lot of it, so you have to be creative.

 
 

 

 

 

 

Directions: From Long Sands Beach go to the north end of the beach and take your first right (Nubble Ln). Continue until you see the lighthouse and park. The bouldering is on the south side facing the lighthouse and just below the parking.

 

Climbers Left side

Here are a few ideas of what's possible:

1. traverse the upper horisontal crack

2. start in lower horizontal crack, pull up to small edge, match, and continue up.

3. sit start in the crack, continue up to face holds.

Middle Area

This is a great technical problem with smears for feet.

 

The Roof

There a number of variations here such as traversing the lip, or going up as the photo shows.

 

Climbers Right Side

Here are a few ideas:

1. Slap up the A frame aretes

2. Start in the diagnol crack and angle up and right on good, but hard to see holds.

Climber: a harder finish to 3

3. Sit start in the corner and go left up the flake then right to a jug and a rock over finish.

 
There's a couple more problems that are not shown here.